This is the listing for the CPO 03-11 Crown Vic tube lower control arms. These are available in stock length or 1" shorter. They are available for stock struts, coilovers or bags all from this listing. Makes it easier finding them on the website. Just order these and let me know if you want stock length, or 1" shorter and what spring type you are running and the correct arms and associated parts will be shipped.
These arms are made with 1/2" thick HR steel balljoint plates. These are stronger than those cups people use as the metal around the balljoints on those is thin and usually the bottom is angled. Imagine how hard it is to press a balljoint in that angled cup, or later pressing one out and a new one in. This plate makes that much easier. The main tubes are 1.25' od DOM tube with a .250" (1/4") wall thickness. Fully tig welded with a root pass and much thicker cover main pass for added strength.
FEATURES:
** Fully tig welded
** Polyurethane bushings #4001 and 4002
** Same balljoints that fit the factory arms. (#K80141)
** Comes with cam bolts for mounting and stainless spacers and washers for the struts.
** Can be used with factory CV struts or your choice of coilovers or air bags. The most popular ones people use are Viking or QA1 coilovers and we prefer Slam Specialties bags.
** Bolt in just like the factory arms.
YouTube video of what's in the box and where it goes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cax2-vVh2Xw
Assembly instructions for lower arms, strut version:
**** Read completely thru before starting ****
First, start by putting the two lower balljoints in the freezer for 3 hours before installing. They will go in easier that way. You will also need some ant seize for the balljoint and arms where the balljoint presses in. Balljoint shaft points down and the top hat of the balljoint comes up thru the control arm just like the factory arms. In fact it's the same K80141 balljoint that fits the factory arms. Press in from the bottom going up thru the arm. Once it's seated all the way in, put the balljoint spacer ring on the top of the balljoint and then install the spring clips. The balljoint spacer is a large stainless spacer with a 1.75" hole to fit over the balljoint top hat. It's in the pics next to the balljoints.
Next take a rubber mallet or plastic dead blow and install the #2892 poly bushings into the lower arm outer sleeves. Once they are both in you can put in the inner sleeves the same way. Using assembly lube or vaseline works well on the poly bushings going into the main bushing outer sleeves and for the inner sleeves. Inner sleeves are 1.00" od x 3" long x .635" ID
No other assemble is needed on the arms. However when installing, a 2.5" diameter x .635" id x .125" thick stainless washer goes against each #2892 poly bushing inside the frame for the poly bushings to ride against. Once you put the arm inside the frame you can put the 5/8" bolt thru with the correct size cam washer. They take a different size for front and back and will only go together one way. The 5/8" flange locknuts hold that all together and can be adjusted for alignment. You may choose to ream the aluminum like in the pics in this listing. There are some YouTube videos on that. I will post one here -->
as soon as I find one. Next is the rear bushings. You wil have your original CV rear arm mount or an aftermarket one. Put that mount on with the 1/2" x 4.5" bolt thru it and use a 2" diameter stainless washer on each side and thread loc on the bolt threads. You may or may not need extra washers on one side or the other here or the ability to adjust your rear bushing mounts.
Once that's installed the strut lower bolt goes thru like stock arms and uses a 1.75" od washer on each side of the strut or coilover depending on brand. I will soon add videos of installs myself. Thanks and hit me with any questions.
Please let us know if you have any questions, thanks.
