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Friday 6-12-26

Friday in the CPO shop. Well writing the blog this morning is late. Power went out this morning in a storm. It was off for almost 3 hours. Sucks, looks like I need a backup generator. Anyway, went to the old house/shop yesterday to get the last of the stuff. Had some issues with the truck when I got close. Feels like water in the gas. kept dying and not starting back. Went to get some heat fuel treatment and octane booster. Put that in and it helped. Had to keep it above 2000 rpms or it would idle a bit and die. Then not start back for a while. Died a few times in traffic in bad spots.

At Walmart getting the gas treatment and had my buddy put a small stick in the throttle to hold it open at 2 grand. Let it run a bit and then tried to drive home. Soon as I backed out it died. Got it cranked and put it in gear and hit the gas, anytime I slowed I kicked it in N and gave it gas. Get to a light, coast in N and on the gas, get back to the house and let it roll back down the drive to the trailer. Stick on the throttle holding it at 2000 rpms. Windows down, ac off. Load trailer for 2 hours. Get ready to go and throw it in low and take off, don't let it drop below 1500 in gear. Had to stop and grab a strap that was dragging. It was idling going up and down, didn't die. Get back in and drive, right turn, N, rev it. Light, coast and N rev it. Got all the way back home. It's an hour and a half drive. No overdrive so the rpms stay up. Get home and in the drive way I let it idle. Idles fine, turn it off and re start, starts fine. Un hook trailer and drive around the block. Runs and drives fine. Take it to dinner, ran fine, never missed a beat. So I probably still have a bunch of bad gas. So the gauge doesn't work properly. So I don't know how much I have. So I'll go get a gas can full of good gas and drive that sumbitch until it runs out. So, that chapter is over. I do have to go back and grab a couple crates, my gantry crane and some other small stuff. Then the old place is history.

Here at the new shop, it's lowers every day, first thing every day is at least one set of lowers and then some uppers I'm still doing in a batch. Then crossmember parts. As I get the shop set up the flow will be better. Man I'm loving everything about this shop except the heat. Gotta get the ceiling sprayed and get A/C in there. Then build the shipping room out back. Peace






** CURRENT LEAD TIME 4-6 WEEKS **

I am now building in batches so these times will come down quick for main line items like upper and lower arms and crossmembers and related parts.

How to reach me:

Email: chassispartsonline9900@gmail.com (I read and answer emails before work, during lunch and after work. So replies may be slow. I get lots of emails so if you send one and don't get a reply within 6 hours, email again. I forget to get back to people sometimes)

Phone: 214-498-4840 (I answer calls when I can. Calls about technical questions or what to order. For updates on current orders, please email and put the last 3 digits of the order number in the subject line. Giving an update over the phone requires me to stop what I'm doing, usually welding, remove gloves, helmet etc and answer the phone, then walk over to the house, fire up the monitor and find the order to check the status. It wastes an incredible amount of shop time. With about 60 open orders right now and usually about 50 open that's just nearly impossible to do. So let's use the email system to handle that and save us all the time. Lets also be respectful of my family time and not call me after 7pm central time and not on Sundays. I try to treat this like a regular job and my wife is kind enough to let me go out in the shop in the envenings sometimes and weekends sometimes. So I try to respect her time and not have work impede into our family time. Feel free to text me anytime though. If I have time I will reply. But lets keep texts to 8am to 8pm M-S and 10am-6pm Sundays, thanks)

Check us out on YouTube at:

Chassispartsonline





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Our tube arms are made with DOM tube and laser cut steel plates. Cold rolled steel when we can. We make all our bushing sleeves from DOM as well. We turn all our bushings on a lathe in our own shop. We use only Energy Suspension graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings. They are the absolute best there are available. The graphite impregnated means they do not require grease and will not squeak. Most shops use Daystar or Prothane poly bushings that do requre grease and will squeak when there is none and will also become spongy over time. Some shops will use a Delrin bushing which is hard almost like plastic. You don't want that in a street driven vehicle for the same reason you don't want heim joints in your suspension. They transmit vibrations into the chassis. Like having solid motor mounts. No need for it when you can have the best bushings available. They are also easy for you to get thru any dealer that sells Energy Suspension.

Our control arms will use the factory style balljoint for that vehicle in most cases. If not it will be made for another common vehicle. There are no special order balljoints. We prefer balljoints with a metal ring holding the boot which helps keep the grease in where it should be. We do offer uniballs (spherical bearings) on some applications. By that I mean for example. If you need control arms for a 99-06, 07-13, 14-19 or 2020 up GM half ton truck those all have the same basic press in small balljoint. However to make custom arms with a better balljoint thats more heavy duty, has more degrees of travel like for an air ride truck and also bolts in to make it simple I would use the K6136 which is made for 73-87 GM trucks. Same taper and length and they bolt in.

Or for a 97-03 F-150 you can use a K6292 which fits an 88-98 GM fullsize truck.

I also know lots of other ones that are kind of obscure like S-10 bolt in balljoints fit Toyota and Mazda spindles. Nissan Hardbody upper and lower balljoints fit Mitsubishi spindles.

Chrysler style screw in K772 fit many uppper spindles like Mustang II etc. I've gained that knowledge from building tube arms for lowered and bagged trucks since the early 90s.

Now I've turned my attention to early Ford trucks. I plan to make lots of other parts like 100% bolt in 4 links for using the 9 inch, the 03-11 Crown Vic rear, the 02 and earlier Crown Vic rear or the 90s Explorer rear which is also an 8.8 with limited slip and 3.73:1

Plus panhard bars, watts links and step notches. I also build custom tube chassis in my home shop. I will offer a full F-100 chassis at some point. One you can afford by the way.



As some of you know I used to make tube arms for all kinds of trucks for bags. I've made hundreds of sets of arms over the years. Our plan is to add more and more tube arms to our page as we develop them. Over the last few years while I was out of the control arm game but doing fab work at one shop or another I've made arms for a 73-87 GM fullsize, an 88-98 GM fullsize, an S-10, a Mazda B2200 on bags, an Isuzu on bags, an 07-13 GM fullsize on bags and many 4 links, watts links etc. All those items will be items we make as we move forward.

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