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Friday 6-5-26

Friday in the CPO shop. Today I have a crossmember to box up this morning. Then it's lower arms and then some crossmember upper arm mounts and related pieces. I also have to get the new bender bending pieces. I have a bunch of lower arms tubes cut and ready to bend. Plus I have a bunch of DOM tube full sticks outside ready to come in and be cut and bent.

But let's talk boxing first. No not in the ring, but in the shipping room. I used to have a 10x16 shipping room. Not at this shop. Here I just have a table in the shop bay for the moment. At some point I'll build one in the awning area at the back of this shop. For now the table in the shop and boxes in the spare bedroom. Same place I'm using for an office typing this now. The awning area in the back of the shop is 40x16. So I'll make a shipping room/office there. Then the rest will be storage like a normal house garage.

So for boxing, I have a bunch of boxes. The Crown Vic lower arms ship in an 18x18x4 box if they are for bags and an 18x18x6 box if they're for coilovers or struts. The Crown Vic upper arms ship in a 12x10x4 box if they're the adjustable version. The non adjustable ship in a 12x12x4 box. What I do there is use cardboard sheets to cut an extra 12x12 or 12 x10 bottom piece, one for in between the arms and another on top. Then I cut strips about 3.75" tall for lining the inside of the box. Some things get an extra couple layers inside the box. The way UPS handles parts, these heavy steel parts would go right through a box alone. They have to have plenty of extra cardboard and packing to keep them from moving around. I never have parts get delivered with parts coming out of the box. This also means the parts inside the box don't bang around on each other and get to the customer beat up and scratched up.

So the crossmember is one of the hardest things I have to box up. It's 29" long and about 7" wide. It's also an odd shape. So what dfo you do about that? try finding a 30x11x7 box. Nope, no need looking. I'm sure I could have them made. But at what cost? I'm just a one man shop that may use 100 of those boxes a year at the most. No the answer is two boxes. 15x11x7 and cut the end out. Fist put the bottom together with tape and then cut the end out. Then use that cut out end in the bottom as a second layer. Fits perfectly between the tabs inside the box. Then the cut out from the other box fits inside the top. No wasted cardboard at all. So I use wood glue to glue the ends inside. Wood glue works great on cardboard and dries fast. So I'll go cut two boxes and glue the bottom first. I'll sent two crossmember center secions in there for weight. Then go work on someting else. Then come back and take two 30x20 cardboard sheets and bend them at 5.5" and then at 7" and then cut 2" off the remaining piece. Then bend the 5.5" down and glue it down inside the box. Now we have two layers of cardboard. Then I do the other side gluing each piece as I go.

Then when I put the crossmember in there on it's side I wrap more cardboard over the ends and flanges where it's likely go go thru the box. Then I pack it with heavy brown paper so it's stable inside the box. Then close up and tape the entire oustside of the box. Edges and ends all together. Then label and tape over the label so it doesn't come off. Then I don't worry about it. UPS has insurance free up to $99 value. I do not buy the extra insurance. UPS never loses or damages a package. All the money I save would build any lost or damaged parts. Like a city self insuring. But now you now how well items are packaged here at CPO. Where we undr promise and over deliver. As I proceed thru this week I'll keep making crossmember boxes buy cutting and gluing while I do other things in the shop. I'll have a bunch of boxes stored up and ready as I make crossmembers in batches. Peace








** CURRENT LEAD TIME 4-6 WEEKS **

I am now building in batches so these times will come down quick for main line items like upper and lower arms and crossmembers and related parts.

How to reach me:

Email: chassispartsonline9900@gmail.com

Phone: 214-498-4840

Check us out on YouTube at:

Chassispartsonline





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Our tube arms are made with DOM tube and laser cut steel plates. Cold rolled steel when we can. We make all our bushing sleeves from DOM as well. We turn all our bushings on a lathe in our own shop. We use only Energy Suspension graphite impregnated polyurethane bushings. They are the absolute best there are available. The graphite impregnated means they do not require grease and will not squeak. Most shops use Daystar or Prothane poly bushings that do requre grease and will squeak when there is none and will also become spongy over time. Some shops will use a Delrin bushing which is hard almost like plastic. You don't want that in a street driven vehicle for the same reason you don't want heim joints in your suspension. They transmit vibrations into the chassis. Like having solid motor mounts. No need for it when you can have the best bushings available. They are also easy for you to get thru any dealer that sells Energy Suspension.

Our control arms will use the factory style balljoint for that vehicle in most cases. If not it will be made for another common vehicle. There are no special order balljoints. We prefer balljoints with a metal ring holding the boot which helps keep the grease in where it should be. We do offer uniballs (spherical bearings) on some applications. By that I mean for example. If you need control arms for a 99-06, 07-13, 14-19 or 2020 up GM half ton truck those all have the same basic press in small balljoint. However to make custom arms with a better balljoint thats more heavy duty, has more degrees of travel like for an air ride truck and also bolts in to make it simple I would use the K6136 which is made for 73-87 GM trucks. Same taper and length and they bolt in.

Or for a 97-03 F-150 you can use a K6292 which fits an 88-98 GM fullsize truck.

I also know lots of other ones that are kind of obscure like S-10 bolt in balljoints fit Toyota and Mazda spindles. Nissan Hardbody upper and lower balljoints fit Mitsubishi spindles.

Chrysler style screw in K772 fit many uppper spindles like Mustang II etc. I've gained that knowledge from building tube arms for lowered and bagged trucks since the early 90s.

Now I've turned my attention to early Ford trucks. I plan to make lots of other parts like 100% bolt in 4 links for using the 9 inch, the 03-11 Crown Vic rear, the 02 and earlier Crown Vic rear or the 90s Explorer rear which is also an 8.8 with limited slip and 3.73:1

Plus panhard bars, watts links and step notches. I also build custom tube chassis in my home shop. I will offer a full F-100 chassis at some point. One you can afford by the way.



As some of you know I used to make tube arms for all kinds of trucks for bags. I've made hundreds of sets of arms over the years. Our plan is to add more and more tube arms to our page as we develop them. Over the last few years while I was out of the control arm game but doing fab work at one shop or another I've made arms for a 73-87 GM fullsize, an 88-98 GM fullsize, an S-10, a Mazda B2200 on bags, an Isuzu on bags, an 07-13 GM fullsize on bags and many 4 links, watts links etc. All those items will be items we make as we move forward.

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